Oahu Trip 2016 with Elizabeth Eaton, Dawn Higgins, and Elizabeth Jamison
Aloha Holiday in Oahu with Elizabeth, Dawn, and Izzy - 2016
Friday, September 23 – Head to Oahu to visit Elizabeth Cleveland Jamison (Izzy) in Kailua.
Left John and Beth’s around 5:30. Took Bart. Elizabeth’s flight canceled so I arrived five hours early at Honolulu airport and was met by Izzy. We started to drive to Wikiki, but decided to head to her house where we chatted in living room for quite a while before returning to airport to pick up Elizabeth. Izzy gave us both Lais. Her house in Kailua on Lama Place Road is amazing. Outside is a fountain of a mermaid and heart shaped tile. Inside the rooms surround a garden, a winged fairy, and large fountain that is about twelve feet wide and five feet tall with little fish that eat the mosquitoes. There was a blooming lily pad and Peace plant. As you enter, you traverse a long kitchen with plentiful wooden cupboards and drawers, then come to a dining room/living room adjacent to a large wood planked deck overlooking green trees and seeing the large of the Mokaluka Islands. I had nice room with huge queen size blow up mattress and desk and couch. Elizabeth’s room steps out to large wooden deck with benches on side and chairs near windows. Photographs of Catherine Cleveland celebrate her life. Izzy was on bottom floor with bedroom and bathroom and two big rooms where costumes were being made by designer/dancer Cheryl Flaharty and master seamstress Dee Laris, wife of Omer Kursat.
Saturday, September 24
Our first morning with glorious light and our whistling bird. Breathed in the peace on the deck and then headed down Lama Road to Lanipo Drive for mile walk down Mokulua Drive to Lanikai Beach past Palm trees, gorgeous gates, blooming trees and lovely gardens until we reached Entryway 7 and walked down a sandy path between houses. After stowing our stuff beneath a red Catamaran, we barefoot on warm sandy beach walked north toward the island that resembled an alligator (took me several days to recognize the distinctive shape. We watched six women launch and paddle an outrigger and soaked in the joyful frolicking dogs and cheerful walkers. Upon returning to our catamaran, we waded into the soothing aqua water where we swam, floated, and felt tensions seep out of our bodies into the healing ocean. After a breakfast of granola and yogurt, we made our first excursion to Whole Foods on 629 Kailua Road to stock up on food and snacks.
Sunday, September 25
We reached Lanikai Beach for sunrise. So lovely.
Later, with Izzy, we drove in her BMW to Bellows Beach only open from Friday noon through the weekend as all other times are for the military and their family. The waves were rumbly, and I refrained from using Boogie Board. Signs warned of undertow and man-of-war jelly fish. Izzy set up her chair and we set up our mats, walked the beach and played in the water. Izzy got ouchy sting. Wonderful view of green hills with pleats.
Monday, September 26
Our morning walk became a treasured ritual. Izzy, Elizabeth, and I headed to Makapuu Lighthouse and hiked up with Elizabeth in a zone arriving way before us. Impressive story of three families and their lighthouse keepers and the heroic lifting of huge one-of-a kind light from the turbulent sea up the cliff. View of Coco Crater and azure turbulent sea with white caps.
Tuesday, September 27
Our morning ritual was followed by trip to Salvation Army where we found several dresses and shirts for Elizabeth while Izzy worked on changing insurance plan for her house. We stopped at Island Snow on 130 Kailua Road and enjoyed shave ice/ice cream/ cream treat that Obama and his family enjoy. We had raspberry, coconut and vanilla flavoring. In afternoon, we headed to the lovely Kailua Beach Park where we watched dog named Q jumping for Frisbee, kite borders skimming the water swiftly, and families playing in the shallow river. We put our gear beneath palm trees on a sandy dune. Elizabeth walked, and I tried out my snorkeling gear. I found mouthpiece too big and flippers too stiff.
Wednesday, September 28
What joy each morning brings as we stroll to Lanikai Beach always noticing more delights in the gardens and trees. Izzy joined us one morning.
We ate lunch at Haleiwa Joe’s on 66011 Kamehameha Highway. Had salad and grilled fish. Later in afternoon we headed west to “The Kahe Point Beach Park snorkeling area is located on the west side of Oahu, just north of the Ko Olina Resorts. We got a little lost and the place seemed sketchy at first. Kahe Point is nicknamed, Electric Beach because of the electric power plant located nearby. The electric plant outflows clean warm water through two giant cooling pipes offshore. At the openings of these pipes the water temperature is several degrees warmer than the surrounding ocean. The warm water attracts scores of sea life.” Izzy stayed ashore while Elizabeth used my snorkel key bought for under $5 dollars. Nice couple lent me mask and snorkel gear. We spotted turtle.
We ate dinner at Roy’s Restaurant on 92 Aliinui Drive. Very tasty fish and yummy dessert.
Thursday, September 29
After magical morning ritual, we borrowed the smaller BMW and headed to the Waimea Botanical Gardens and Waterfalls. Listened to man describe nut oil that is good for burns and stings. Warm day. Took lots of photos of flowers and magnificent trees and flowing streams. Under thatched roof where canoe was being carved out of tree, sociologist/story teller told us some tales of early inhabitants and burial caves in the hills behind the falls. Walked to waterfall, donned life jackets and swam to falls. On way back got separated near the peacock.
“This lush botanical garden is part of a partially intact ahupuaa (traditional land division), spans nearly 2,000 acres and features a towering waterfall. Native Hawaiian high priests and their descendants lived in and cared for the valley for centuries; Kamapuaa, the ancient Hawaiian ruler of Oahu, dubbed it the “Valley of the Priests.” Today, the park is home to more than 5,000 tropical and subtropical plants including native and endangered Hawaiian flora. Here, you’ll see Hawaiian hibiscus, loulu palms and more than 48 species of kalo (taro) being grown in traditional loi, or irrigated agricultural terraces. Waimea Valley also features a fully restored hale o Lono (house of Lono). Trails throughout the park lead to the 45-foot-tall Waimea Falls in which you can swim.”
Dinner out with Izzy.
Friday, September 30
So joyous to walk to Lanikai Beach and swim and soak in the sunshine. Storm clouds roll in, hide islands, and then disappear. Elizabeth and picked up Dawn at airport. We got there early as Izzy predicted. After stop at Whole Foods, we cooked dinner at the house.
Saturday, October 1,
Dawn’s first walk to Lanikai. Every step was a new wonder to exclaim over, to photograph, to message to Shawn and Vincent, to describe. Flowers. Mailboxes, Gates. Palm Trees. The Hills with Pill Boxes. Then our lovely walk on beach and swim. Apple banana.
Climbed to the Pill Boxes on Ka’lwa Ridge. Walked had previously suggested to Izzy that she wouldn’t want to do hike. Start is by golf courseGood views. Sweaty but then fabulous breezes. Take lots of photographs. Group of Japanese boys playing loud rap music. Consciously decided not to be bothered. Young men help up get up on top of box and also help me get off. Aloha. I set too fast a pace coming down, and Elizabeth wants us to slow down. Descent much easier than ascent. Not muddy as expected. See the Mooks, see Izzy’s house. Some rain spritz near bottom.
“ The Kaiwa Ridge Hike is great to go either sunrise or late afternoon short 0.6 mile each way but gains 500 ft so is steep in places with great views along the way - It takes about 30 minutes or less to hike from the trailhead to the top (second) pillbox (elev. 565-ft). It’s another 10 minutes to reach the ridge's highest point (elev. 603-ft) marked by a geodetic marker (the small concrete platform with broken surveyor's pole). The "official" trailhead, unmarked, is about 40 feet uphill on a paved, private driveway along Kaelepulu Drive. The driveway is opposite of the Mid Pacific Country Club & Golf Course just before you reach an exclusive, gated community. The first part of the trail is very steep, slippery, and can be confusing. This trail is undeveloped. The trail is rocky, windy and rewards you with a great view on top of the pillboxes.”
To Gala at Sharaton in Wikiki. Izzy, Elizabeth, Dawn and I get taxi with Gary ($80 plus $20 tip). Elegant tall lady in silver with silver train and bubbles emerging from her hat is at the entrance. Stunning. Graceful pantomime moves as she interacts with incoming guests. Later young kids chasing bubbles get too rev’ed up and knock over lighting and bump into her. Saunter around silent auction items (stays in fancy hotels, clothes, dancers, wines, dinners…) None of us bid. The dance/performers begin setting up outside by pool.
Magical costumes and expressive (body and facial language of performers).
Sudden rainstorm. People don’t flee. Umbrellas and warm beach towels passed out.
Five tables of food with paired wines - each representing a different ocean. Usually a fish dish, a meat dish, and a vegetarian dish. Yummy food.
Dancing and interacting with the characters. Elizabeth in a zoned mined communication with jellyfish lady and two others. Dancing with Dawn and Elizabeth. Lounged in white circular chair. Trapeze girl up high in cage after man wiped off wet bars. Blue bottle vodka.
Drive home with Urber man – second job after his army job. $78
Sunday: October 2
Maybe this was day two women took photo of us jumping in air when we enjoyed our morning at Lanikai Beach..
Kailua Farmers Market at middle school parking lot with meat pies, coconut milk, Hawaii shirt and shift, music and dancing. Elizabeth got eggs and ham. Dawn got veggies. I got small fruit that you pinched open and then ate white pieces of fruity treat.
We went to Kailua beach; Elizabeth and I borrowed kayaks from strangers who ate at Buzz’s. Fish kept leaping out of water. Schools of fish. Boys in motorboat caught large fish. The men at rental were sound asleep in chair and hammock. Elizabeth found kayaking tiring. Dawn walked on beach.
Rented snorkels from Sam who stayed open late and told us places to go like Fish Taco place and waterfall hiking place. We enjoyed Island Snow Shave Ice (raspberry, coconut, and vanilla with ice cream on bottom and cream on top.) Photos of Obama.
Potluck with meat pies and veggies for dinner. Dessert chocolate ice cream and strawberry ice cream. Wine.
Monday, October 3: Elizabeth’s last full day.
Hanamuna Bay: Left at 7 AM; Listened to video; room in parking lot; set up chair and rolled bamboo mats. Coral close to surface. Some people stood on coral. Izzy snoozed. Primordial trees; fish sculpture. End with school of yellow fish and big ones. Stopped at Ono’s steak and had fish tacos with mango salsa and Ahi. Wonderful final day for Elizabeth.
Hula dancer at House Without a Key at Sharaton Wikiki. Sunset. On the water saw sailboats, cruises, people catching waves. Great sunset. Crescent Moon. Three planets. Drank Mango Mint Freeze with coconut rum, fresh mint, and lime juice. Yummy Ahi fish dinner split Elizabeth and Halekulani’s Coconut Cake, Vanilla Crème Anglaise. Father and son played guitar and ukulele by the stump outside on patio. Multiple weddings take place there in one day. Hula Dancer Skyler Kamaka 2012 Miss Hawaii. Changed her outfit with every set Dawn thanks singers and got photo with them. The father and son musicians dedicated last song of night to Dawn and she got photo with Skylar and musician/singers. Izzy had chocolate dessert. Great interior flowers. Bedai with multiple options. Oscillating and pulsing. Hysterical laughing in bathroom that made other bathroom users smile. When leaving, Japanese elders and youth bowing and bowing. So much aloha.
Tuesday, October 4: Elizabeth’s departure day.
Dawn and I took her to airport after going to Whole Food for airplane snacks and her packing. Stopped at Starbucks at airport and waited til it seemed like her plane would go.
Dawn and I went to Diamond Head, a larger crater from Volcano. Hiked up the many, many, many steps and switchbacks to get to pill boxes at top. Very steep staircases with lots of steps. Great view of Honolulu and Waikiki on one side and lighthouse hike done earlier in holiday. Dawn face-timed Shawn and Vincent. Climb up ladders at tippy top. One girl didn’t want to go to top, but her boyfriend wouldn’t come down until she came up.
“The Diamond Head Summit trail hike is likely the most popular hike in Oahu, and for good reason. While fairly steep, this easy hike starts from the middle of the Diamond Head volcano crater and climbs about 500 feet up the side to the top of the rim.
The Diamond Head crater is more than 3,500 feet in diameter and is part of the Hawaiian volcano chain from more than a half million years ago (don't worry, it has been dormant for at least 150,000 years now). The crater is also called "Le'ahi," which means "brow of the tuna" in Hawaiian. It got the name Diamond Head almost 200 years ago when British sailors believed there were diamonds in the side of the crater. Although none were found, the name stuck.
The trail was built in 1908 as part of the Oahu coastal defense system. The World War II bunkers on top now support antennas used by the government.
The trail starts on a paved path before climbing several steep switchbacks leading to the first set of stairs. After the stairs you will climb through a tunnel and then climb up another set of stairs before reaching the bunkers at the top of the rim. Once on top you can climb up to the top of the bunkers for 360-degree views of the island, with Waikiki not too far away.”
On way back, we passed Hanamuna Snorkeling Beach and stopped and took great photos at Blow Hole and Before Sandy Beach. Wonderful textures of pleats in mountain, rock holes by sea, and crashing water, and water spraying out blow holes.
Ate at Buzz's Original Steak House. Ahi Habatchi style. Drank Lava Flow with Bacardi light, coconut, pineapple juice, and pureed strawberries. Fantastic salad bar with all the avacado one could eat. Keylime pie.
Wednesday, October 5
First walk to Lanikai Beach without my seastar sister Elizabth.
Dawn and I drive up east coast: great beaches. Then head to Polynesia Cultural Center at 55-370 Kamelameha Highway in La lewhich opened at noon. Visited 7 island nations:
Dinner was pig roast, yams, fish, pineapples, cantaloupe, rice, purple taro bun, lemony dessert and other tasty treats.
Walked around. Bought saucy orangish hat with Panache and Sarong, Dawn opened oyster shells to harvest lovely lustrous pinkish pearls for her and Vincent, each color representing something, turtle coaster and outrigger coaster, sarong green wrap with yellow flowers.
(7:30 to 9:00 PM) Main Show: Breath of Life; HA
Have baby of his own.
Polynesian Cultural Center
The Polynesian Cultural Center, or PCC, is a good a starting point for your cultural exploration. It is almost an hour away from Waikiki. To represent the diversity of the early inhabitants of Hawaii along with their rich history, it showcases native villages representing Samoa, Fiji, Tahiti, Tonga, Aotearoa (Maori New Zealand), Rapa Nui (Easter Island), and the Marquesas. Here, you can learn more about the history of each island nation and how they mirror the true Polynesian culture. This is also a good place for admiring exhibits and participating in activities that feature traditional arts and crafts, ancient forms of recreation, food preparation, and even training methods used in ancient warfare.
Activities in the PCC
Be part of traditional activities at the PCC and see native performers from across the Pacific. As soon as you arrive at the Polynesian Cultural Center, you will be treated to Hawaii's most authentic luau and one of the world's largest Polynesian night shows. You'll then understand why every trip to Hawaii should include a stop at the Polynesian Cultural Center. This cultural center had over 33 million visitors since its first opening in 1963. This figure may well be attributed to the wide-range hands-on activities in the Polynesian Cultural Center that makes the visit only more interesting and remarkable. Here, you can experience husking a coconut, building and using an underground oven, and even doing the famous Fire Knife dancing.
You can also watch shows that features a cast of over 100 performers from the Pacific to celebrate the rich cultural diversity and traditions of Polynesia. A visit to the Polynesian Cultural Center will tell you why the center remains one of Hawaii’s top tourist attractions. While you are at Oahu, immerse yourself in the cool arts and culture scene in Honolulu.
Another cultural activity of the Oahu residents is the "Rainbows of Paradise" in the PCC, which hosts the famous canoe pageant. This pageant features a colorful parade of canoes representing each of the island nations. You can also watch the Coral Reef Adventure on Imax, followed by the Ali’i Luau, an all-you-can-eat buffet catering traditional Hawaiian cuisine as well as other local favorites. Take time to sing or dance along with Hawaiian music for entertainment and meet friendly locals who are more than willing to help their guests and show the best of Oahu.
Waimea
Friday, October 7, 2016
Maunawili Waterfall Hike in Kailua
After parking in lovely residential area, Dawn and I headed up the trail with the promise of swimmable waterfall at the top. Wearing water shoes and packing our lunch, we set out. At the base, three young man sprinted past us. A couple shared their bug spray. Aloha spirit. A taxi driver told us to look out for an Australian family with no cell phones. Quite quickly we struck mud (as promised in the tourists’ brochures). Mud coated my golf socks and velcroix strap water sandals. We snaked up the trails, skirting smushy mud, navigating tangles tree routes, balancing atop rocks, ducking under branches and lifting our legs over them. Qute the jungle. Met couple from Australia; the husband tripped and fell in mud and then we saw them no more. The hike was strenuous and occasionally discouraging, the destination a long way off. Rushing stream water with swirling water and small water falls, tall trees, huge palm leaves, and textured tree trunks invited photo shooting. I had Canon and telephoto lens. After 90 minutes, felt worried about return trip to bottom, but we persevered. Another Aloha moment near the falls was when a man gave me his walking stick. It made a huge difference on the tall steps built into the trail. How challenging it must have been to cart the heavy metal stair guards. A young woman asked if I was alone. Everyone caring for others on the trail.
We crossed the river several times, hoping not to slip on rocks or step too deep so as not to get camera gear wet.
Finally the falls. The falls cascaded down at the end of enclosure made of lava rocks.
A gaggle of spirited young men and women (couples, friends, and soldiers) were wading in water and cheering on each other to climb up and jump from various heights. 15 feet, 45 feet, 60 feet. Lo ts of cell phones recording the daring youth. Some brave, some hesitant. I ate my peanut butter and raspberry jam sandwich on cranberry/walnut bread. Ravenous. I ventured in the water which soothed and cooled my tired feet and then I swam very close to walls, grabbing handholds to pull me closer to falls. Scraped my hands and stubbed my toes and bruised my shin. Swam a bit with my goggles. After returning to shore, refreshed but ready for more, I asked jumper if the ascent was slippery. Encouraged, I swam to left side and easily clamored up. Dawn, iphone at the ready, recorded my jump, and evidently the young’uns cheered while I was under water.
After an hour at the falls, we headed back down, which was not nearly as taxing as the ascent, particularly because of my staff. Dawn face-timed with Vincent and Shawn and shared the jungle we were descending. Daylight was fading, and our legs were aching. After 90 minutes, I was ready for the finish, and miraculously a road appeared, and the final leg was smooth going. Left my staff by a tree and we headed home, with sore muscles and tired feet. Really bushed.
A nice hike through the jungle to great view of Kailua, Maunawilli Falls, and a swimming hole.
Maunawili Trail contours the base of the Koolau Mountain Range on the windward side. It begins off the Pali Highway and ends in Waimanalo. It offers spectacular views of the windward side of Oahu, Olomana, and the Koolaupoko watershed. Vegetation along the trail includes mountain apple, rose apple, ti, naupaka, mamake, lobelia, koa and ohia. Maunawili Trail is a good family trail. There are three access points for this trail.
The Maunawilli Falls Trail is a great hike in Kailua along the river that eventually stops at a beautiful waterfall with a great swimming hole below. Many people like to jump from the waterfall into the pool below, and some with a bit more courage even climb higher to the side of the waterfall to jump further (try at your own risk).
The trail is often muddy, especially after rains, and you will cross the river several times along the trail. About half way through the hike you will break out of the trees for some nice views of the surrounding mountains and views towards Kailua in the distance.
Welcome showers. Spraying hose to get mud off shoes, socks, shorts.
Returned to Buzz’s with Izzy and Cheryl. Mahi-Mahi was good but bland. The volcano strawberry, pineapple, cococut, rum drink good, the salad bar wonderful with scoops of avocado, bacon bits, beets, spinach. Split grasshopper pie with Dawn. Cheryl shared about her dance career, moving from North Carolina, to California, to Hawaii and meeting Katherine Cleveland.
Bedtime welcome.
Saturday, October 8, 2016 – LAST DAY
Up at 5 AM and went briefly to couch, then pitter-pattered out to spacious wooden deck and watched the sky lighten to pink tinges. Our bird trilled but not first. Practiced yoga poses on deck including sun salutation – to loosen stiff joints and lubricate sore muscles. Walked to top of Lama Road and then down to Elizabeth’s plumaris tree and took photos. Then Dawn and I headed to Whole Foods for breakfast, coffee, and plane snacks. Spent glorious morning at Kailua Beach. Ate our breakfast. Dawn had yummy egg, cheese, and ham on croissant. I had mediocre scrambled eggs, chicken sausage with peppers and tart lemonade. Walked on beach and in water, taking more photos. So nice to cool our feet. Man sculpting backside of voluptuous fannied woman. Watched men in orange outrigger take off, young boy learning to guide the kite strings, muscled man in single outrigger power-paddle out toward the Moaks, … (I tried to hint to borrow his boat), but it’s good to save some treats for the next trip.
Part of the bumper fell off, so Dawn lying on her back, ductaped it back on.
Swam and frolicked in rolling recurring waves (wanting us to play); “we were obliged to play” “inundated” “undulating” “unpredictable.” We rode in a few waves. Walked more, swam more, walked again, and then Aloha back to Izzy’s.
Packed. Sweaty. Hugs to Cheryl. Izzy gave us ride to airport. Got yogurt and granola and Dawn got seaweed snack for Vincent.
Wrote this journal on plane from Honolulu to Chicago and at home in Bedford.
Aloha Holiday in Oahu with Elizabeth, Dawn, and Izzy - 2016
Friday, September 23 – Head to Oahu to visit Elizabeth Cleveland Jamison (Izzy) in Kailua.
Left John and Beth’s around 5:30. Took Bart. Elizabeth’s flight canceled so I arrived five hours early at Honolulu airport and was met by Izzy. We started to drive to Wikiki, but decided to head to her house where we chatted in living room for quite a while before returning to airport to pick up Elizabeth. Izzy gave us both Lais. Her house in Kailua on Lama Place Road is amazing. Outside is a fountain of a mermaid and heart shaped tile. Inside the rooms surround a garden, a winged fairy, and large fountain that is about twelve feet wide and five feet tall with little fish that eat the mosquitoes. There was a blooming lily pad and Peace plant. As you enter, you traverse a long kitchen with plentiful wooden cupboards and drawers, then come to a dining room/living room adjacent to a large wood planked deck overlooking green trees and seeing the large of the Mokaluka Islands. I had nice room with huge queen size blow up mattress and desk and couch. Elizabeth’s room steps out to large wooden deck with benches on side and chairs near windows. Photographs of Catherine Cleveland celebrate her life. Izzy was on bottom floor with bedroom and bathroom and two big rooms where costumes were being made by designer/dancer Cheryl Flaharty and master seamstress Dee Laris, wife of Omer Kursat.
Saturday, September 24
Our first morning with glorious light and our whistling bird. Breathed in the peace on the deck and then headed down Lama Road to Lanipo Drive for mile walk down Mokulua Drive to Lanikai Beach past Palm trees, gorgeous gates, blooming trees and lovely gardens until we reached Entryway 7 and walked down a sandy path between houses. After stowing our stuff beneath a red Catamaran, we barefoot on warm sandy beach walked north toward the island that resembled an alligator (took me several days to recognize the distinctive shape. We watched six women launch and paddle an outrigger and soaked in the joyful frolicking dogs and cheerful walkers. Upon returning to our catamaran, we waded into the soothing aqua water where we swam, floated, and felt tensions seep out of our bodies into the healing ocean. After a breakfast of granola and yogurt, we made our first excursion to Whole Foods on 629 Kailua Road to stock up on food and snacks.
Sunday, September 25
We reached Lanikai Beach for sunrise. So lovely.
Later, with Izzy, we drove in her BMW to Bellows Beach only open from Friday noon through the weekend as all other times are for the military and their family. The waves were rumbly, and I refrained from using Boogie Board. Signs warned of undertow and man-of-war jelly fish. Izzy set up her chair and we set up our mats, walked the beach and played in the water. Izzy got ouchy sting. Wonderful view of green hills with pleats.
Monday, September 26
Our morning walk became a treasured ritual. Izzy, Elizabeth, and I headed to Makapuu Lighthouse and hiked up with Elizabeth in a zone arriving way before us. Impressive story of three families and their lighthouse keepers and the heroic lifting of huge one-of-a kind light from the turbulent sea up the cliff. View of Coco Crater and azure turbulent sea with white caps.
Tuesday, September 27
Our morning ritual was followed by trip to Salvation Army where we found several dresses and shirts for Elizabeth while Izzy worked on changing insurance plan for her house. We stopped at Island Snow on 130 Kailua Road and enjoyed shave ice/ice cream/ cream treat that Obama and his family enjoy. We had raspberry, coconut and vanilla flavoring. In afternoon, we headed to the lovely Kailua Beach Park where we watched dog named Q jumping for Frisbee, kite borders skimming the water swiftly, and families playing in the shallow river. We put our gear beneath palm trees on a sandy dune. Elizabeth walked, and I tried out my snorkeling gear. I found mouthpiece too big and flippers too stiff.
Wednesday, September 28
What joy each morning brings as we stroll to Lanikai Beach always noticing more delights in the gardens and trees. Izzy joined us one morning.
We ate lunch at Haleiwa Joe’s on 66011 Kamehameha Highway. Had salad and grilled fish. Later in afternoon we headed west to “The Kahe Point Beach Park snorkeling area is located on the west side of Oahu, just north of the Ko Olina Resorts. We got a little lost and the place seemed sketchy at first. Kahe Point is nicknamed, Electric Beach because of the electric power plant located nearby. The electric plant outflows clean warm water through two giant cooling pipes offshore. At the openings of these pipes the water temperature is several degrees warmer than the surrounding ocean. The warm water attracts scores of sea life.” Izzy stayed ashore while Elizabeth used my snorkel key bought for under $5 dollars. Nice couple lent me mask and snorkel gear. We spotted turtle.
We ate dinner at Roy’s Restaurant on 92 Aliinui Drive. Very tasty fish and yummy dessert.
Thursday, September 29
After magical morning ritual, we borrowed the smaller BMW and headed to the Waimea Botanical Gardens and Waterfalls. Listened to man describe nut oil that is good for burns and stings. Warm day. Took lots of photos of flowers and magnificent trees and flowing streams. Under thatched roof where canoe was being carved out of tree, sociologist/story teller told us some tales of early inhabitants and burial caves in the hills behind the falls. Walked to waterfall, donned life jackets and swam to falls. On way back got separated near the peacock.
“This lush botanical garden is part of a partially intact ahupuaa (traditional land division), spans nearly 2,000 acres and features a towering waterfall. Native Hawaiian high priests and their descendants lived in and cared for the valley for centuries; Kamapuaa, the ancient Hawaiian ruler of Oahu, dubbed it the “Valley of the Priests.” Today, the park is home to more than 5,000 tropical and subtropical plants including native and endangered Hawaiian flora. Here, you’ll see Hawaiian hibiscus, loulu palms and more than 48 species of kalo (taro) being grown in traditional loi, or irrigated agricultural terraces. Waimea Valley also features a fully restored hale o Lono (house of Lono). Trails throughout the park lead to the 45-foot-tall Waimea Falls in which you can swim.”
Dinner out with Izzy.
Friday, September 30
So joyous to walk to Lanikai Beach and swim and soak in the sunshine. Storm clouds roll in, hide islands, and then disappear. Elizabeth and picked up Dawn at airport. We got there early as Izzy predicted. After stop at Whole Foods, we cooked dinner at the house.
Saturday, October 1,
Dawn’s first walk to Lanikai. Every step was a new wonder to exclaim over, to photograph, to message to Shawn and Vincent, to describe. Flowers. Mailboxes, Gates. Palm Trees. The Hills with Pill Boxes. Then our lovely walk on beach and swim. Apple banana.
Climbed to the Pill Boxes on Ka’lwa Ridge. Walked had previously suggested to Izzy that she wouldn’t want to do hike. Start is by golf courseGood views. Sweaty but then fabulous breezes. Take lots of photographs. Group of Japanese boys playing loud rap music. Consciously decided not to be bothered. Young men help up get up on top of box and also help me get off. Aloha. I set too fast a pace coming down, and Elizabeth wants us to slow down. Descent much easier than ascent. Not muddy as expected. See the Mooks, see Izzy’s house. Some rain spritz near bottom.
“ The Kaiwa Ridge Hike is great to go either sunrise or late afternoon short 0.6 mile each way but gains 500 ft so is steep in places with great views along the way - It takes about 30 minutes or less to hike from the trailhead to the top (second) pillbox (elev. 565-ft). It’s another 10 minutes to reach the ridge's highest point (elev. 603-ft) marked by a geodetic marker (the small concrete platform with broken surveyor's pole). The "official" trailhead, unmarked, is about 40 feet uphill on a paved, private driveway along Kaelepulu Drive. The driveway is opposite of the Mid Pacific Country Club & Golf Course just before you reach an exclusive, gated community. The first part of the trail is very steep, slippery, and can be confusing. This trail is undeveloped. The trail is rocky, windy and rewards you with a great view on top of the pillboxes.”
To Gala at Sharaton in Wikiki. Izzy, Elizabeth, Dawn and I get taxi with Gary ($80 plus $20 tip). Elegant tall lady in silver with silver train and bubbles emerging from her hat is at the entrance. Stunning. Graceful pantomime moves as she interacts with incoming guests. Later young kids chasing bubbles get too rev’ed up and knock over lighting and bump into her. Saunter around silent auction items (stays in fancy hotels, clothes, dancers, wines, dinners…) None of us bid. The dance/performers begin setting up outside by pool.
Magical costumes and expressive (body and facial language of performers).
- The three water sprites in whites with water streaming out of fingertips and headdresses on platform. So elegant. Imposing. Tall. Omnipresent. Center stage.
- The three ladies in saucy outfits as we enter.
- The vodka blue bottle lady.
- The jellyfish lady (her dressed had been cleaned on Izzy’s deck to get off stains).
- The men in white pouring champagne in the champagne hatted ladies.
- The beach ball girl.
- The girl inside the balloon bubble.
Sudden rainstorm. People don’t flee. Umbrellas and warm beach towels passed out.
Five tables of food with paired wines - each representing a different ocean. Usually a fish dish, a meat dish, and a vegetarian dish. Yummy food.
Dancing and interacting with the characters. Elizabeth in a zoned mined communication with jellyfish lady and two others. Dancing with Dawn and Elizabeth. Lounged in white circular chair. Trapeze girl up high in cage after man wiped off wet bars. Blue bottle vodka.
Drive home with Urber man – second job after his army job. $78
Sunday: October 2
Maybe this was day two women took photo of us jumping in air when we enjoyed our morning at Lanikai Beach..
Kailua Farmers Market at middle school parking lot with meat pies, coconut milk, Hawaii shirt and shift, music and dancing. Elizabeth got eggs and ham. Dawn got veggies. I got small fruit that you pinched open and then ate white pieces of fruity treat.
We went to Kailua beach; Elizabeth and I borrowed kayaks from strangers who ate at Buzz’s. Fish kept leaping out of water. Schools of fish. Boys in motorboat caught large fish. The men at rental were sound asleep in chair and hammock. Elizabeth found kayaking tiring. Dawn walked on beach.
Rented snorkels from Sam who stayed open late and told us places to go like Fish Taco place and waterfall hiking place. We enjoyed Island Snow Shave Ice (raspberry, coconut, and vanilla with ice cream on bottom and cream on top.) Photos of Obama.
Potluck with meat pies and veggies for dinner. Dessert chocolate ice cream and strawberry ice cream. Wine.
Monday, October 3: Elizabeth’s last full day.
Hanamuna Bay: Left at 7 AM; Listened to video; room in parking lot; set up chair and rolled bamboo mats. Coral close to surface. Some people stood on coral. Izzy snoozed. Primordial trees; fish sculpture. End with school of yellow fish and big ones. Stopped at Ono’s steak and had fish tacos with mango salsa and Ahi. Wonderful final day for Elizabeth.
Hula dancer at House Without a Key at Sharaton Wikiki. Sunset. On the water saw sailboats, cruises, people catching waves. Great sunset. Crescent Moon. Three planets. Drank Mango Mint Freeze with coconut rum, fresh mint, and lime juice. Yummy Ahi fish dinner split Elizabeth and Halekulani’s Coconut Cake, Vanilla Crème Anglaise. Father and son played guitar and ukulele by the stump outside on patio. Multiple weddings take place there in one day. Hula Dancer Skyler Kamaka 2012 Miss Hawaii. Changed her outfit with every set Dawn thanks singers and got photo with them. The father and son musicians dedicated last song of night to Dawn and she got photo with Skylar and musician/singers. Izzy had chocolate dessert. Great interior flowers. Bedai with multiple options. Oscillating and pulsing. Hysterical laughing in bathroom that made other bathroom users smile. When leaving, Japanese elders and youth bowing and bowing. So much aloha.
Tuesday, October 4: Elizabeth’s departure day.
Dawn and I took her to airport after going to Whole Food for airplane snacks and her packing. Stopped at Starbucks at airport and waited til it seemed like her plane would go.
Dawn and I went to Diamond Head, a larger crater from Volcano. Hiked up the many, many, many steps and switchbacks to get to pill boxes at top. Very steep staircases with lots of steps. Great view of Honolulu and Waikiki on one side and lighthouse hike done earlier in holiday. Dawn face-timed Shawn and Vincent. Climb up ladders at tippy top. One girl didn’t want to go to top, but her boyfriend wouldn’t come down until she came up.
“The Diamond Head Summit trail hike is likely the most popular hike in Oahu, and for good reason. While fairly steep, this easy hike starts from the middle of the Diamond Head volcano crater and climbs about 500 feet up the side to the top of the rim.
The Diamond Head crater is more than 3,500 feet in diameter and is part of the Hawaiian volcano chain from more than a half million years ago (don't worry, it has been dormant for at least 150,000 years now). The crater is also called "Le'ahi," which means "brow of the tuna" in Hawaiian. It got the name Diamond Head almost 200 years ago when British sailors believed there were diamonds in the side of the crater. Although none were found, the name stuck.
The trail was built in 1908 as part of the Oahu coastal defense system. The World War II bunkers on top now support antennas used by the government.
The trail starts on a paved path before climbing several steep switchbacks leading to the first set of stairs. After the stairs you will climb through a tunnel and then climb up another set of stairs before reaching the bunkers at the top of the rim. Once on top you can climb up to the top of the bunkers for 360-degree views of the island, with Waikiki not too far away.”
On way back, we passed Hanamuna Snorkeling Beach and stopped and took great photos at Blow Hole and Before Sandy Beach. Wonderful textures of pleats in mountain, rock holes by sea, and crashing water, and water spraying out blow holes.
Ate at Buzz's Original Steak House. Ahi Habatchi style. Drank Lava Flow with Bacardi light, coconut, pineapple juice, and pureed strawberries. Fantastic salad bar with all the avacado one could eat. Keylime pie.
Wednesday, October 5
First walk to Lanikai Beach without my seastar sister Elizabth.
Dawn and I drive up east coast: great beaches. Then head to Polynesia Cultural Center at 55-370 Kamelameha Highway in La lewhich opened at noon. Visited 7 island nations:
- (12:30) Samoa with Kap, humorous stocky Samoan sharing history and puns, young Samoan who scampered up palm tree but DIDN’T jump to another palm tree; flag raising of two flags (American Samoa) opening coconut with machete, squeezing milks out of fuzzy coconut fiber. Given crown of woven palm leaves.
- (1:00) Islands of Aotearoa: New Zealand: Maoiri male and female. Tongues out and stances; facial expression fierce; sending men to war and hunting. Alarming; Aggressive. Black lipstick; facial grimaces warrior like. Quivering, shaking hands. All about battle.
- (1:30) Figi: Learned much more about place I only visited for 36 hours in 1969 on way back from Australia which was year previous to when it gained independence from Britain. sticks thumped on ground in different rhythms to accompany song: sets of three, sets of three/two/ sets of four
- (2:30) Canoe pageant parade: Floats
- (3:00) Hawaii: hula; ukeleli girl with very long hair, played behind head; staccato; narrator (weaver, teacher, learner) headdresses wreathes; beads on ankls; guy in puffy skirt; chanting, canoe in front; Pele (goddess of distruction); man and women hoola; more than hoola dance is the story. Drummed on gourds; another dance with baton sticks, shaker feathered one in each hand; blue dresses; barefoot.
- (3:30) Tonga Courtship. Wedding ceremony. Given red flower; knock-kneed men with loin cloth; women shake hips with straw brush and grass skirt (mother in law chases suiter away.); man who performed ceremony had bishop like headdress; big splash; pearl from oyster, all wet; teased by mates. No is answer to will you ever leave this woman or leave this men. Procession. Had audience married couples redo their vows.
- (4:00) Tahiti: partipatory: three men volunteers: Utah, Japan, drummed; yelped, and took fierce stances.
Dinner was pig roast, yams, fish, pineapples, cantaloupe, rice, purple taro bun, lemony dessert and other tasty treats.
Walked around. Bought saucy orangish hat with Panache and Sarong, Dawn opened oyster shells to harvest lovely lustrous pinkish pearls for her and Vincent, each color representing something, turtle coaster and outrigger coaster, sarong green wrap with yellow flowers.
(7:30 to 9:00 PM) Main Show: Breath of Life; HA
Have baby of his own.
- Story of pregnant woman and husband who escape volcanic eruption and arrived bedraggled and discouraged and orphaned. “On a perilous night, in an unknown place, a child, Mana is born and breathes the breath of life.”
- TONGA: Kindly villagers welcome the little one and his parents to their new home. Welcomed royally.
- Hawaii: Mana grows, and the villagers celebrate his early years of life. Clever screen images of baby becoming toddler becoming little boy becoming teen.
- Aetearoa (New Zealand): As Mana becomes a man, he learns the ways of his fathers (learning to hunt and learning to fight) and sets out to find his place in the world
- INTERMISSION: sell coconut drinks
- Samoa: Discovering new villages and new people, Mana also finds new love. His character played by boy, teen, and young man who goes courting lovely lady with father who forcible keeps them separated. Crazy fire butting routine which shows manhood and finally convinces woman’s father to accept him. Marriage.
- Tahiti: Mana and Lani make a new life together. Warrior attack. Forgiveness and not kill enemy.
- Fiji: Mana becomes a father and defends his new family, he says goodbye to the one who gave him life (his father) who is welcomed by the ancestors. He grieves, but his grey-haired mother and wife help him move forward. His child is born, and Mana learns that HA, the breath of life, goes on forever.
- Fire Dancing
Polynesian Cultural Center
The Polynesian Cultural Center, or PCC, is a good a starting point for your cultural exploration. It is almost an hour away from Waikiki. To represent the diversity of the early inhabitants of Hawaii along with their rich history, it showcases native villages representing Samoa, Fiji, Tahiti, Tonga, Aotearoa (Maori New Zealand), Rapa Nui (Easter Island), and the Marquesas. Here, you can learn more about the history of each island nation and how they mirror the true Polynesian culture. This is also a good place for admiring exhibits and participating in activities that feature traditional arts and crafts, ancient forms of recreation, food preparation, and even training methods used in ancient warfare.
Activities in the PCC
Be part of traditional activities at the PCC and see native performers from across the Pacific. As soon as you arrive at the Polynesian Cultural Center, you will be treated to Hawaii's most authentic luau and one of the world's largest Polynesian night shows. You'll then understand why every trip to Hawaii should include a stop at the Polynesian Cultural Center. This cultural center had over 33 million visitors since its first opening in 1963. This figure may well be attributed to the wide-range hands-on activities in the Polynesian Cultural Center that makes the visit only more interesting and remarkable. Here, you can experience husking a coconut, building and using an underground oven, and even doing the famous Fire Knife dancing.
You can also watch shows that features a cast of over 100 performers from the Pacific to celebrate the rich cultural diversity and traditions of Polynesia. A visit to the Polynesian Cultural Center will tell you why the center remains one of Hawaii’s top tourist attractions. While you are at Oahu, immerse yourself in the cool arts and culture scene in Honolulu.
Another cultural activity of the Oahu residents is the "Rainbows of Paradise" in the PCC, which hosts the famous canoe pageant. This pageant features a colorful parade of canoes representing each of the island nations. You can also watch the Coral Reef Adventure on Imax, followed by the Ali’i Luau, an all-you-can-eat buffet catering traditional Hawaiian cuisine as well as other local favorites. Take time to sing or dance along with Hawaiian music for entertainment and meet friendly locals who are more than willing to help their guests and show the best of Oahu.
Waimea
Friday, October 7, 2016
Maunawili Waterfall Hike in Kailua
After parking in lovely residential area, Dawn and I headed up the trail with the promise of swimmable waterfall at the top. Wearing water shoes and packing our lunch, we set out. At the base, three young man sprinted past us. A couple shared their bug spray. Aloha spirit. A taxi driver told us to look out for an Australian family with no cell phones. Quite quickly we struck mud (as promised in the tourists’ brochures). Mud coated my golf socks and velcroix strap water sandals. We snaked up the trails, skirting smushy mud, navigating tangles tree routes, balancing atop rocks, ducking under branches and lifting our legs over them. Qute the jungle. Met couple from Australia; the husband tripped and fell in mud and then we saw them no more. The hike was strenuous and occasionally discouraging, the destination a long way off. Rushing stream water with swirling water and small water falls, tall trees, huge palm leaves, and textured tree trunks invited photo shooting. I had Canon and telephoto lens. After 90 minutes, felt worried about return trip to bottom, but we persevered. Another Aloha moment near the falls was when a man gave me his walking stick. It made a huge difference on the tall steps built into the trail. How challenging it must have been to cart the heavy metal stair guards. A young woman asked if I was alone. Everyone caring for others on the trail.
We crossed the river several times, hoping not to slip on rocks or step too deep so as not to get camera gear wet.
Finally the falls. The falls cascaded down at the end of enclosure made of lava rocks.
A gaggle of spirited young men and women (couples, friends, and soldiers) were wading in water and cheering on each other to climb up and jump from various heights. 15 feet, 45 feet, 60 feet. Lo ts of cell phones recording the daring youth. Some brave, some hesitant. I ate my peanut butter and raspberry jam sandwich on cranberry/walnut bread. Ravenous. I ventured in the water which soothed and cooled my tired feet and then I swam very close to walls, grabbing handholds to pull me closer to falls. Scraped my hands and stubbed my toes and bruised my shin. Swam a bit with my goggles. After returning to shore, refreshed but ready for more, I asked jumper if the ascent was slippery. Encouraged, I swam to left side and easily clamored up. Dawn, iphone at the ready, recorded my jump, and evidently the young’uns cheered while I was under water.
After an hour at the falls, we headed back down, which was not nearly as taxing as the ascent, particularly because of my staff. Dawn face-timed with Vincent and Shawn and shared the jungle we were descending. Daylight was fading, and our legs were aching. After 90 minutes, I was ready for the finish, and miraculously a road appeared, and the final leg was smooth going. Left my staff by a tree and we headed home, with sore muscles and tired feet. Really bushed.
A nice hike through the jungle to great view of Kailua, Maunawilli Falls, and a swimming hole.
Maunawili Trail contours the base of the Koolau Mountain Range on the windward side. It begins off the Pali Highway and ends in Waimanalo. It offers spectacular views of the windward side of Oahu, Olomana, and the Koolaupoko watershed. Vegetation along the trail includes mountain apple, rose apple, ti, naupaka, mamake, lobelia, koa and ohia. Maunawili Trail is a good family trail. There are three access points for this trail.
The Maunawilli Falls Trail is a great hike in Kailua along the river that eventually stops at a beautiful waterfall with a great swimming hole below. Many people like to jump from the waterfall into the pool below, and some with a bit more courage even climb higher to the side of the waterfall to jump further (try at your own risk).
The trail is often muddy, especially after rains, and you will cross the river several times along the trail. About half way through the hike you will break out of the trees for some nice views of the surrounding mountains and views towards Kailua in the distance.
Welcome showers. Spraying hose to get mud off shoes, socks, shorts.
Returned to Buzz’s with Izzy and Cheryl. Mahi-Mahi was good but bland. The volcano strawberry, pineapple, cococut, rum drink good, the salad bar wonderful with scoops of avocado, bacon bits, beets, spinach. Split grasshopper pie with Dawn. Cheryl shared about her dance career, moving from North Carolina, to California, to Hawaii and meeting Katherine Cleveland.
Bedtime welcome.
Saturday, October 8, 2016 – LAST DAY
Up at 5 AM and went briefly to couch, then pitter-pattered out to spacious wooden deck and watched the sky lighten to pink tinges. Our bird trilled but not first. Practiced yoga poses on deck including sun salutation – to loosen stiff joints and lubricate sore muscles. Walked to top of Lama Road and then down to Elizabeth’s plumaris tree and took photos. Then Dawn and I headed to Whole Foods for breakfast, coffee, and plane snacks. Spent glorious morning at Kailua Beach. Ate our breakfast. Dawn had yummy egg, cheese, and ham on croissant. I had mediocre scrambled eggs, chicken sausage with peppers and tart lemonade. Walked on beach and in water, taking more photos. So nice to cool our feet. Man sculpting backside of voluptuous fannied woman. Watched men in orange outrigger take off, young boy learning to guide the kite strings, muscled man in single outrigger power-paddle out toward the Moaks, … (I tried to hint to borrow his boat), but it’s good to save some treats for the next trip.
Part of the bumper fell off, so Dawn lying on her back, ductaped it back on.
Swam and frolicked in rolling recurring waves (wanting us to play); “we were obliged to play” “inundated” “undulating” “unpredictable.” We rode in a few waves. Walked more, swam more, walked again, and then Aloha back to Izzy’s.
Packed. Sweaty. Hugs to Cheryl. Izzy gave us ride to airport. Got yogurt and granola and Dawn got seaweed snack for Vincent.
Wrote this journal on plane from Honolulu to Chicago and at home in Bedford.